By Daniela Altimari
Hartford Courant
Published: 7/14/2005
A quiet stretch of Route 10 just north of the center of Granby isn't where you'd expect to find an upscale brew pub. But why shouldn't denizens of this fast-growing exurb have easy access to great burgers and tall glasses of handcrafted pale ale?
Actually, The Cambridge House is worth a drive from just about anywhere in north-central Connecticut, or southwestern Massachusetts for that matter. The restaurant, which opened about three months ago, doesn't look like much from the outside. But inside, the handsome dining room boasts gleaming hardwood floors, an inviting bar and a spacious patio. Even the spotless restrooms show an attention to detail: The women's room contained a basket of hand lotion and other toiletries.
The owners, a salesman and a risk-management consultant, visited scores of brew pubs in 15 states before completing their plans. They wanted to combine the look of a classic English pub with the casual, "everybody- knows-your-name" ambience of a neighborhood place.
In other words, you'll feel at home here, whether you come with the kids for a full meal or stop by the bar for a beer and a burger with the gang from work.
The beers and ales get high marks for their crisp, fresh flavors and rich body, but on this day, we came to eat. We weren't disappointed. Unlike some brew pubs, where the food is an afterthought, the chef at The Cambridge House plays second fiddle to no one.
We started with an order of jalapeo poppers, spicy little peppers filled with cream cheese, flash-fried until golden and served with a wasabi dipping sauce. They disappeared quickly.
The fresh-tasting Cobb salad was full of bacon, chicken, hard-cooked eggs and Gorgonzola cheese. The grilled pizza Margarita was a nice blend of zingy plum tomatoes, creamy mozzarella, parmesan and peppy basil. "We use the grain from the brewing process for the crust," said Steve Boucino, one of the owners.
The menu has a decidedly Asian flavor: The tuna steak is marinated in sake and ginger, the chicken skewers come with a spicy peanut dipping sauce, and the chicken salad is lightly bathed in sesame vinaigrette.
But given the atmosphere, the menu's English-accented pub favorites seemed more appropriate. The beer-battered fish sandwich, hunks of flaky cod tucked inside a sesame bun and served with fries and slaw, would be right at home anywhere in London.
The half-pound burger was cooked medium well, exactly as ordered. The menu also features bangers and mash, a traditional English dish known as sausage and mashed potatoes on this side of the Atlantic.
The children's selections, each less than $4, include macaroni and cheese, hot dogs, grilled cheese and three varieties of peanut butter sandwiches.
This is a place where you'll want to save room for dessert, which are made by Lost Acres Orchard, a local baker. Our waitress recommended the brownie sundae, which was a perfectly adequate rendition of an old favorite.
Far more interesting was the velvet Elvis cake, a rich slice that incorporates two of his favorites, peanut butter and bananas. It's delicious, although after a few bites you may begin to feel as bloated as the king in his Las Vegas twilight.
But you'll be happy.
|
